Skagway and the Glacier

Hello from the Amsterdam! I've missed two days because of activities and a bad mussel. We docked in Skagway, a gateway to the gold rush, and took the White Pass and Yukon Railroad up the mountain. that's not exactly how it was- the train has a narrow gauge, 36 inches! and it went up and up and up over trestles that looked like they wobbled, and through tunnels. I sat on the inside most of the way, looking at the rock wall rather than down the steep mountainside to the valley and rapid/rock strewn river below. At one time the guide said it was a Class 6 rapids ride! The scariest thing was when we stopped with the back half of the train on the trestle and in the tunnel while they fixed the breaks on one car. Maybe that was a Disneyland experience but they convinced me I should be looking for an escape route. We got lots of photos, and it probably won't look as bad. We liked Skagway. The town is neat and tidy for the tourists. More later. Virginia P.S. Glacier Bay was amazing!

Sitka and Russian Culture

We were anchored in the bay at Sitka by 7AM, and after breakfast we were off for a short tour around town, visiting the local Russian Orthodox cathedral, a local Indian museum and a presentation of Russian folk dances. We were impressed with the cathedral, mostly because it was filled with interesting and old icons. They cover everything on the painting with silver, worked in intricate designs, except for the flesh. The Virgin Mary has a face and hands, but the rest is overlayed with silver. Very different form the Greek Orthodox church I visited in Seattle a few years ago. We were impressed that the services are sometimes three hours long and they all stand up the entire time. I'd give up church if I had to do that. Our guide was a Tlingit indigenous person and he was well informed about everything. I think he said Sitka has 8000 people and 18 churches! That should tell you something. The church burned down in the 60's and the parishioners made a human chain and saved 90% of the furnishings of the church. They have one icon that was shipped from Russia and the boat sank on the way; they found the icon washed up on the shore of Sitka with little damage! Stories for the faithful.

The visit to the museum was interesting, too. Most of the artifacts were collected by a Presbyterian minister who traveled all over Alaska, gathering cultural examples of weaving, baskets, scrimshaw, beadwork, regalia, canoes, furs, and anything else the native tribes used. Everything is catalogued for five different groups, Aleuts, Eskimos, several indigenous tribes, like Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian, and Athabascan. (Not sure about the spelling on all those.) The collection also held copies of letters and notes from a 19th century Army surgeon's wife. She mailed baskets and other native cultural artifacts to friends, including forks and spoons carved from bone or wood. I saw the most amazing scrimshaw at that museum; one had the whole story of an Eskimo hunt for a seal. Very detailed work.

The Russian dancers were amazing. A group of women living in Sitka decided to recreate authentic Russian dancing, although none of them are Russian. The enlisted the help of the then Orthodox Russian Bishop to help them interpret the books with information about the dances. They've been performing for over 30 years, and they have women dancing the male roles because they couldn't get any men to volunteer to dance. They perform all over the states and overseas. In the middle of their performance, three of the tour guides told the story about the Alaskan flag, which was named by a 13 year old boy in an orphanage. He had the flag be blue for the water and the sky. The trim was gold for the goldrush, and the north star at the top was always shining for Alaska. The big dipper reminds us of the starts that surround us. It was very moving and sweet.

We are anchored in the bay at Sitka; the sun came out for a few minutes; the seas are flat and calm; the salmon are running and go by the boat jumping out of the water, trying to get to the nearest stream. It's a lazy afternoon, we've been reading in a quiet corner, and then they showed up with white tablecloths, napkins and tea cups to serve afternoon tea where they served tea, sweets ,and savories. I had a cup of tea, a cucumber sandwich, (a tiny round with a smear of cream cheese and thin, thin cucumber on top) as well as a fruit tart, a tiny thing with two bites of cream filling and bits of fruit on top. It was very civilized! We just found out they do this every afternoon. What have we been missing?

This ship is small and we keep running in to the same people for meals. Lots of people are looking for their next cruise, so I am not alone in that pursuit. Tonight we'll probably watch a movie in our cabin since there is nothing much going on that interests us. Maybe I should play the slot machines. A lady last night told me she won $480 the first night out! Tomorrow we go to Skagway and another tour. Loving Alaska, Jim and Virginia

Ketchikan Kan

We arrived in Ketchikan by 6AM, after a long overnight trip in the fog. (Last night we looked out and couldn't see the flag on the bow. The big fog horn went every two minutes as required. ) It was clear of fog when we arrived in K., and we even had sunshine for a few minutes this afternoon. We have already gone on a tour of the fish hatcheries, seeing big, big salmon climbing up fish ladders to spawn. We also saw eagles with broken wings-they'll live out their days in a sanctuary, eating well and entertaining the tourists with their beauty. Then we were off to Totem Bight Park where we saw amazing totems and heard the folk tales that the Haida, Tlingit and other tribes use to explain the sun, salmon and other facts of nature. It was fun, but we passed on the required shopping in town. There are four(!) cruise ships in here, and we are the smallest. K. looks like any fishing town to me, but it got dressed up for the touristas who come between April 15 and Oct 1. That's it folks, and they still only have 14,000 people and a small marina.

Comments on this trip: It's after lunch, Jim has gone off to mail postcards, and I am catching up with email and my blog. We have noticed there are lots of really old people on this ship. (Even older than we are!) And, it looks to me like the women are doing better than the men. Lots of the guys look over the hill, but their wives are still hanging in there. I wonder if that is in the DNA or if we just take better care of ourselves. Lots of people have been married for many, many years; this morning a woman told me she is celebrating her 50th anniversary tomorrow. Some men have younger women with them, but I haven't seen any young men with old ladies! Of course, there are some women traveling together. One young woman obviously has her grandmother, and I applaud her for that. Last night was a formal night and they weren't as dressed up as the last cruise. Maybe it's because we are going to Alaska. There were some people in tuxes and long gowns, but not as much glitter. Last time I was open mouthed with awe at the amazing jackets and dresses that looked like Bob Mackie designed them. This cruise is quiet, too, with more people sitting around reading books and looking out the windows. We have even slowed down and plan a nap each day!! And, lots of people are on their third or even forth trip to Alaska. That must be a testimony to how people feel about this place.

I am looking out the windows and the Zaadam is leaving port on their way home to Seattle. They were on a 7day cruise. I'm getting hooked on this; I'm planning the next one! Cheers, we'll be thinking of you as we sail along. Leaving here at 5PM for Sitka. Jim and Virginia

Aug 24 Holland America to Alaska

Hello Everyone! We left Oak Harbor for Seattle on Sunday Aug 22, staying over with Libby for the night. We hadn't had a chance to see her new Pioneer Square office, so after lunch we went downtown Seattle, along with the duck boats(!), to visit her way-cool building and offices. She has beautiful furniture and lots of storage and meeting space. Her townhouse is shaping up, too, after being a home office for several years. We loved her new dining table and renewed bedroom.

Monday Aug 23-After a leisurely morning we were off with Uri in the limo to be dropped at Pier 91. It was the most beautiful day, and Seattle put on a big show! The temperatures were in the high 70's, Mt Rainier was right there, and we were docked even with Queen Anne, looking back at the city and the mountain and the water and the sailboats and the tankers coming in and out. The out of towners were awe-struck. I over heard one man say he had been to Seattle twice and had never seen the mountain. After talking to a couple from Sacramento, I commented, " We try to put on a show for visitors, but not all the time, or they'd all move here!" Promptly at 5PM, we shoved off from the dock and started working our way towards Haro Strait. As we passed Whidbey Island, Jim had his GPS, maps and binoculars out, attracting a huge crowd. We had to tell everyone we lived over there. Of course, everyone wanted to know why we would go on a cruise when we already lived here?? We had a late dinner in the Lido buffet and then went to our cabin for an early night. Jim was up at o'dark-thirty (5ish) to go out on deck to see Campbell River as we passed and our entrance into Johnstone Strait. That was pretty uneventful, and now we are cruising along looking at the beautiful tree covered mountains on northern Vancouver Island. Wow, it is really magnificent up here. We know it's beautiful because we've had our boat as far as Desolation Sound, but it just keeps being beautiful. Can't wait for amazing Alaska!

A few housekeeping items.: (1)we are in a room with a big window, so I can sit and look out; (2)the food isn't nearly as amazing this time (It's very good, but since I know all about it, I can be discriminating about what I eat.); (3)the crowd seems old, but the ship is smaller and the crowds aren't as overwhelming; (4)since we are traveling alone, Jim is making friends everywhere, talking to people, telling them what his GPS says and where we are, etc., etc., etc.(had drinks with a couple from San Antonio last night); (5)we are more relaxed about the whole experience, so it's already more fun; (6)I've already got the next cruise planned!!! On the way to Alaska, Jim and Virginia

Cruising Away Again to Alaska

We are almost packed, we have both cameras ready, and we have books, knitting and a GPS to take along so we know where we are! We are leaving early tomorrow to spend the day with Libby, and then we'll board the ship on Monday noonish. We depart at 5PM. Our friends, the Liebmans, who live in Sierra, are waving a flashlight as we go by West Beach. How fun is that! We'll be waving, but with doubts they can see us on a big ship. Hope we see something like the photo attached. More later. The Wagners

SS Amsterdam Here We Come!

Nine days and counting! We leave on our cruise on August 23, but we're going to Libby's for the first night, the 22nd. That will give us a chance to see her new digs in Pioneer square and have a leisurely breakfast before we board the ship at noon. We leave Seattle at 4PM. Our itinerary for the cruise is as follows:
8/24 Inside Passage; 8/25 Ketchikan;8/26 Sitka; 8/27 Skagway; 8/28 Glacier Bay; 8/29 At Sea; 8/30 Anchorage; 8/31 Homer; 9/1 Kodiak; 9/2 Hubbard Glacier; 9/3 Juneau; 9/4 At Sea; 9/5 Victoria BC;9/6 Seattle.

I have the boarding passes printed; the luggage tags printed, and I've made lists of clothes and other accessories for the trip. I only have to pack my bag now. The biggest problem with that is the weather. We have no idea if it will be warm or cold. Everything I've read says to pack for any weather and layer, but there is a real difference between cold and 30 degrees and warmish and 60degrees So, I'm depending on the US weather bureau to give me a forecast for the first 4-5 days and then we'll do the best we can. I know we'll have four dress up nights, so we'll pack for that. When we cruise, I take along all the jewelry I never wear any more. When I was working, I would wear dresses and suits and dress things up with necklaces and earrings, etc. Now I never wear anything like that. We dress for dinner each night on the ship, and I get a chance to wear all the cool stuff I've still got in my jewelry box. Some of it is fun costume stuff which I love and can't give up.
More later.